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British Made

'Made in Britain' has become short hand for opulent luxury and ancient craftsmanship now sought after worldwide. Holland Cooper is proud to maintain this by sourcing all our tweed fabrics is the UK and individually hand cutting and making all our tweed garments in the UK. The fashion industry provides 816,000 jobs within the UK; at Holland Cooper we realise the importance of staying a 'British Made' tweed, this has been a passion for Jade Holland Cooper, founder and owner of Holland Cooper who has strived to maintain the luxurious British make even throughout the tough economic climate. Trading Britishness has been at the forefront of Jade Holland Cooper's strategy from the outset, this has now seen to pay off as at London Fashion week last year there was seen to be a push for the fashion industry to move back to its production roots here in the UK. Sir Phillip Green's speech proved iconic as he stipulated the importance of improving our manufacturing units in the UK not only for the industry but also to boost the economic climate in the UK . This year Holland Cooper has combined the opulent city flare with the Quintessentially British look to create the most iconic British tweed collection to date incorporating Ostrich Skin and Shearling for uncompromising luxury.

British Made Luxury

It is this kind of promotion of British industry that is getting Holland Cooper noticed internationally. In a world where primary industry has previously hopped from one country to the next depending on the cheapest possible labour, it is truly refreshing how Jade Holland Cooper, pursues the road not taken by many and supports British manufacturing. Jade started the company back in 2007, with the goal to bring London to the countryside, and bring heritage Scottish tweed ‘kicking and screaming’ into the 21st Century.

Why is British Made so Sought After?

There is now a strong emphasis on the need to understand and appreciate where products have been sourced and how they have been made. The demand for lasting luxury over one hit wonders has proved a must in tough economic climates throughout the UK and this has shown heads turning back to long lasting quality fabrics such as tweed. The 'Investment piece' such as British 'tweed coats and jackets' have become a must have this season and an appreciation for quality and a thirst to know where and how things are made have lead the market for UK made products.

In the current economic climate it is difficult for most companies, especially for those who choose to defy the modern convention of heading east for primary industry; but Holland Cooper have managed to grow year on year, producing their new collection which is being described as 'urban country chic' tweed. It is this success that boasts them to be a part of the new British frontier; bringing back the heritage of British industry, and fighting off the recession on the home front.

Hand Cut

We are delighted to state that all Holland Cooper tweed garments are individually marked and cut by hand. We are proud to be home to some of England most experienced cutters and machinists, dedicating their working lives to making each and every garment to the highest standards.

First the selected tweed is placed onto the cutting bench making sure it is absolutely flat and level. The specific pattern is then selected; patterns often have over 18 pieces per garment and so this is an intricate and detailed process.. any error here can mean the tweed is ruined and has to be re marked.

Once the pattern pieces are all placed onto the tweed these are then individually marked with chalk.

Now the pattern pieces have all been marked, they are removed from the tweed to reveal chalk outlines of the pattern pieces. 

This is then individually cut out with large shears by one of our skilled cutters.

How The Tweed Is Made

  • Raw Wool

  • Dye House

  • Blending

  • Carding

  • Spinning Yarn

  • Warping

  • Weaving

  • Scouring, Milling, & Finishing

How it's made overview

  • Raw wool is to the mill, the mills we use make sure that the best raw material is chosen in order to produce fabrics of this quality.

    The wool that arrives is either scoured or cleaned and combed broken tops, which ensures that there is less than 0.3% impurities within the fleeces.

  • The selected raw wool then goes to the Dye House, to be dyed using precise combinations of dye, pressure, temperature and time.

    There is a huge array of colours available with up to 500 different shades to choose from. This is a highly skilled process that is essential to creating beautiful yarns and is passed down through generations.

  • The secret to creating beautifully rich colours that you see in our tweeds is in the blend.

    Up to 7 different coloured wools can go into the recipe for each yarn to create the finished colour. This is what gives Tweeds, Heathers and Plaids their uniquely rich texture. For example, if a check design includes 5 different colours, and each colour has 7 different shades in the yarn, the eye is picking up 35 different colours in the finished pattern.

  • Essential in producing soft, smooth fabrics that Holland cooper is renowned for.

    The blended wool lubricated with a little water and oil is run through a series of combed rollers that first tease the fibres one way and then the other. This process rids the wool of any last impurities ensuring the finished fabrics are smooth and soft to the touch. Carding also helps with alignment and uniformity. At the end of the process, the combed and teased fibres are wound onto a spool ready to be placed into the spinning machine.

  • The rich web of coloured wool is then spun our beautiful yarns.

    There are 6 frames that draw out the wool and put a precise number of twists per inch into the wool, resulting in a fine but strong thread ideal for fabrics used in our clothing. The yarn is then wound onto cones going through a check to ensure continuity of thickness of the yarn.

  • The cones of yarn are wound over a drum (known as a swift or mill) and a warp (lengthwise threads) is made for weaving.

    This can be a complicated process depending on the intricacy of the pattern in the finished fabric. These are checked by hand and must all be held in an exact order to ensure accurate and uniform patterns and designs.

  • This is where many different yarns are woven together in intricate weaves to create stunning fabrics.

    After the fabric is woven, each piece begins a strict quality control process. Every inch of fabric is inspected at three stages in the manufacturing process – when it comes off the loom, after finishing and again before it leaves the factory- ensuring a trademark consistency in quality.

  • After weaving the fabric is scoured (washed) using pure water pumped from boreholes 800ft below, and then milled and dried.

    The oils that were used to aid manufacture of the fabric are removed and fire retardants and water resist treatments can be padded onto the fabric. This is when the wonderful and luxurious feel (or 'handle') starts to become apparent. The final step in the process is finishing. Each length of fabric is carefully pressed using steam and specialised equipment used to remove any shrinkage, thus completing the creation of the fabric.

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